What do you say we take a little break from this holiday thing for a few days? I don’t know about you, but I am full of pie and salt and cream, and I am feeling the need for a brief hiatus before the chili and champagne of New Year’s Eve. Let’s look for something green to eat.
Easier said than done. By this point in the year the lettuce in the store starts looking more wilted than it should, and it is far more appealing to heat up some of that leftover Christmas Ham.
But wait- pause for a moment before you rev up the microwave. If sad and slimy salads do not excite you, I offer you a new set of greens that will both cleanse the palate and give your liver a momentary rest.
Depending on where you live, there very possibly are so many greens still happily growing right now: the kale is sweeter after the first frost, the spinach bravely pokes through the snow, and a dainty leaf called mache finally has its chance to star on the plate. And as we get into the spirit of winter foraging, our salad might end up leafless entirely; in fact, it might be a root vegetable or an allium that gets dressed for dinner.
Let’s talk a little bit about leeks.
I know that you know how lovely leeks are in your soup, how you must put them in your stock, and really anything else. But what do you think about a little leek salad?
Alice Waters urges us to turn to leeks "in the cold months, when lettuce is scarce."
It is cold, and lettuce is scarce! She tells me that they make "a bright winter salad."
And so they do. Leeks are related to onions, and so boiling and tossing them with a vinaigrette might seem out of character, but I can assure you that it is a very good idea. The leeks turn a bright spring green, and the richness of their flavor has the most wonderful conversation with the strong mustard vinaigrette.
So for today, on this day between holidays, I offer you a bright winter salad.
Leeks Vinaigrette
from Alice Waters, The Art of Simple Food
serves 4-6
12 small to medium leeks
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
salt
fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
optional: 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Trim and clean the leeks- cut the root and the hardest part of the green away. Take off any outer layers that look like they need to go. Cut the leek in half lengthwise, so you have half a tube. Hold the top of the section (that looks like a rainbow) under water and let the water wash down through the layers.
Cook for 7 to 12 minutes, or until tender, in abundant salted water. When the leeks are done, carefully lift them out, drain, and set aside.
Mix together the red wine vinegar, the mustard, the salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil.
Squeeze the cooled leeks gently to remove excess water. Gently toss the leeks with salt. When ready to serve, arrange on a plate and spoon the vinaigrette over, turning gently to coat. Top with parsley, if using.




2 Comments




Lovely. May I also recommend chard, another colorful and underutilized addition to the diet that winter makes us appreciate more. Wonder how it works with that 151 proof rum I discovered in Nassau…..
Delicious! I’m going to try this soon.