I’m not much for reposting other people’s recipes diary wise because anyone can google up any recipe known to humans . . . I DO like sharing a special one with a link, in comments . . . when I come across something that REALLY strikes me as special and unique. But I found something recently I want to share.
It’s about this guy.

Here’s the setup and some background on me, and cooking techniques.
I spent 20+ years in the food biz. Most of it in kitchens, cooking, and later on running my own kitchens, doing my own menu’s and such. I was never a full fledged chef, but I became a rabid, passionate and danged good saucier!
I was real fortunate at two points in my mid 20′s to cross paths with a great Italian Chef who taught me a lot about the making of things fresh.
And after that, I spent two years working with an arrogant bastard of a French Chef who begrudgingly taught me more than he wanted. I learnt to cut fish, meat, break down quarters of beef, veal legs. I also learnt how to be a damned fine saucier, which is what I was best at. Oh, and I learnt purchasing, budgeting, plate costs, pricing and more on the back end!
But it was always the stocks, reductions and sauces that drove me.
I mean, I still mist up wistfully when I think about them tiny little bubbles in the 40 gallon stock pot slowly going plop, plop, plop, at 3am before shutting things down and going home.
Sauces, stocks, soups, reductions, AHHHHHHH the life force, the essence of all that’s on a plate (as far as I’M concerned anyways!). *G*
So I’m long used to reductions in cooking, for all kinds of things. Sauces, marinades, stocks and such.
Quick backgrounder. Roasted beef and veal bones. A mixture or one or the other, depending on the final product and the chef’s whimsy. Also, one uses roasted chicken bones and carcasses for a darker and fuller chicken stock, or unroasted chicken bones and carcasses for a clear stock.
Your basic mirepoix (trinity of celery, onion, carrot) can be roasted or unroasted, again, dark or light stock and sauce? Your choice!
Anyhoots, ya reduce all that by half, fill 3/4 water again (adding wine if choose to), toss in tomato bits, garlic cloves, parsley stems and whole bunches at times, other herbs, peppercorns, whatever . . . from that stock, which should take 12 to 24 hours to reduce properly, slowly, tiny little bubbles after the original boil at the outset.
So ya got a stock. For some stocks, once strained and cooled, and chilled, they turn to jelly from all the proteins and such.
Let’s say ya got a nice veal/beef roasted bone stock called demi glace. Ladle some up into a sauce pot on the stove. Say two quarts of the base stock.
In another sauce pot, ya got oh, 4 cups of port wine and two cups of brandy. Drop in your herb you want, be it rosemary, basil, thyme, etc. Some minced shallots, minced garlic.
Reduce THAT by half, as the stock is reducing by half, on the sauce pots.
Combine, reduce again by half, strain, and into the steam table you have a GRAND Rosemary and Green Peppercorn sauce to go over your veal dish, beef medallions, etc.
So, that’s reductions. Reducing things to increase flavors, HEAVILY concentrate and reduce flavors. Oh, and for actually plating to a dish, you’d pull the product out of the saute pan, let it rest, in goes a 4 oz ladle of the sauce to a quick boil, and in goes a tea spoon of sweet butter for the butter fat flavors and silken finish! Then it goes on the product on the plate, or drizzled under, or around . . yadda yadda.
Ok, enough already about the cooking techniques, my misty eyed love of bubbles, and such.
Here’s A GREAT BBQ Recipe That Uses Reduction Technique!
All these years, and I NEVER thought to reduce whiskey for a bbq recipe, like I would normally reduce port wine and brandy with herbs for a demi glace sauce . . . I must be slowing up.
So here’s hats off to Meathead Craig Goldwyn and his GREAT recipe!
And just to show some linky love to Meathead in consideration for all his work, take some time Pups and Go Visit Craig’s Site! He’s quite the hoss and has tons of bbq thoughts and ideas!
Remember, to concentrate flavors, reduce, reduce, reduce.
That’s it for now, I’m hungry and looking in the fridge for something.
Mangiamo!
Gratuitous Food Porn




25 Comments







Larue, y’old Saucy Dog.
If you’re gonna get after it,
I been looking for a good recipe for a Spanish almond sauce…….
Have no idea what yer talking about.
Let’s keep on topic, please.
Thanks.
let me try again.
Larue, I had no idea that you were well-versed in creating sauces. I am pleasantly surprised and gratifed and wondering if perhaps you might post a series of articles about sauces and detailing their preparation.
i would welcome reading such a series.
There is a lovely old Spanish restaurant on Charles St. in Greenwich Village (which is in NYC) wherein I’ve enjoyed a dish of medallions of roasted pork in an almond sauce.
While I guess that the sauce comes from a veal stock, I have never been able to re-create it with any success.
I wonder, Larue, if you might be know anything of it.
Thank you and I enjoyed reading your post.
Ok, thanks.
As to your suggestion I’ve been there and done that.
Texas Betsy’s Site
Scroll down the main page.
On the right, in the side bar, you’ll see a button for ‘Catagories’.
Select ‘Foodie Friday’ and prowl thru them.
Also Select ‘Food Fight’ and prowl thru them.
Most of everything I know is in those posts.
And while yer at it, say hello to Texas Betsy and the others.
Fine folks with lots of fun things.
Mz. Betsy was kind enough to let me find my blog chops for quite a while with my food musings, I’m forever indebted to her for that. Wonderful woman.
Without more info, I couldn’t guess accurately as to what their sauce is.
ONE version I might consider if I wanted an almond sauce for pork medallians:
One quart of demi glace (veal stock, jelly like, from the walk-in/fridge)
Two cups port wine
One cup brandy
1/2 cup apple cider
tablespoon minced shallots
tablespoon minced fresh garlic
small sprig of your fav herb, basil, rosemary or thyme will all do fine for this recipe
teaspoon almond extract
Reduce demi glace in sauce pan by half
Combine all other ingredients into sauce pan and reduce by half
Combine, reduce by 1/4 and strain
Saute/sear medallions and finish in 425F oven
Take 4oz ladle of prepared sauce per one order of medallions (two medallions per order) to saute pan
Bring to rapid boil, swirl in one teaspoon sweet cream butter, deploy on top or under medallions and consume
Sauce can be cooled, and saved in fridge.
Just heat up slowly to avoid burning, but you MUST bring to a rapid boil for a minute to kill germs when reheating it.
Hmmm, apple cider! never thought of it… thanks.
and good idea printing the reheating warning. I’m an old hospital cook, and our kitchen is supervised by an RD, but good on ya.
Wow, institutional cooking is heavy . . . way different than the hotel or restaurant scene.
Hard ass work, any way you look at it.
It’s for kids . . . *G*
heavy, hot, and the food almost always sucks at the end of the day. (except for the stuff we got to make for ourselves, o’course.)
Oooh Larue, testy today are we?
*G*
I never know with him . . .
*G*
One of the things that’s most surprising to me is how so much of French flavoring comes from just a few core goodies. Mirepoix, and its intense twin pinçage, come from the same basic recipe: Two parts onion, one part carrots, one part celery. With that, parsley and thyme, you’ve got enough seasonings for a fair amount, if not the majority of, most dishes in the classic French cuisine.
Dang, neglected to thank you for that!
Spot on, and thanks for sharing!!!
*G*
your terrif!
Thanks for this post! I have wanted to try making a demi glace, but honestly the time committment and going to the butcher for bones has put me off. Rec’d.
Thanks YSD!
Making base stocks is soooo much fun, but as you say, to do it at home involves a lot of work!
If you DO get around to wanting to do it, check out my linky at #8 to Texas Betsy’s site and my old posts there.
All the details are there, start to finish, if ya need any thoughts . . .
And Kelly, yer spot on on the veggie stock . . course, you CAN roast your mirepoix, too, for the color and carmelization.
And absolutely, NEVER salt a stock or a reduction until using it on the line for dish up, then taste it FIRST, before salting.
Thanks for the rcc’ds everyone! Glad I added something to your Sunday Foodie Foibles!
Phud Good!
So which bones are the best to use, and to multipurpose…from what cuts of meat do they originate? I’m thinking beef, not veal.
How long will a jellied demi glace last in the fridge?
Veal bones for a demi glace is traditional, sometimes beef bones thrown in in a percentage for some specific effect.
Both veal and beef bones used for stock are commonly the legs, slice up like you would for osso bucca.
I’ve made stocks out of prime rib bones for special purposes.
And like with chickens, neck bones and other parts of the veal or beef are ok, depends on what you want for flavor (albeit I maintain the difference is so subtle the diners don’t and won’t ever know the difference).
50/50 would be ok for a nice demi glace.
Should last a week or so in the fridge, can also be frozen at any stage of the game. As a stock, as a demi glace, or as the finished sauce (not so for cream sauces).
Check out my linky @8, for Texas Betsy’s place, then follow the directions @8 to find my posts at Relaxed Politics.
I have one that deals with how to make a demi glace from start to finish, with all the ingredients I use, hints, options, and such.
Compare that with what you might find on the internet ‘How To Make Demi Glace’ . . . . let us know what you do and how it comes out!
This is exciting! Good luck!!
*G*
shanks because you want bones bearing marrow?
Another thing; sometimes you need a vegetarian stock. To get a deeper color on it, use yellow onions and leave the brown papery skin on.
Also I’d recommend never salting your stock. That way when it’s used as an ingredient in whatever dish you’re making the saltiness never “sneaks up” on you.
recc’d!
And I dug and hung my first garlic of the season today.
Oh what a difference fresh makes! I found bunches at our local market, and made a braid. I love it.
I never met a garlic I didn’t like!
*G*
Hey Larue,
This is a great post, and fun too. I used to make chicken stock a lot, but now just for the Thanksgiving gravy. We have a permanent invitation at friends, but they have a gravy-free household. At Thanksgiving, can you imagine?
Given gravy can be made without flour, butter, cornstarch . . . I have NO idea why they’d ban gravy!
I make a bed of mirepoix, with lots of garlic, herbs and pour red or white wine into the pan about an inch deep, then lay the bird on that with a tinfoil tent to cover. It goes on banked coals in the bbq, with wood chips and such.
Two hours of that and 15minutes with no tin foil to brown for a 15# bird. Giblets are in the pan, too.
THEN, the drippings and some mirepoix and garlic and herbs go into a sauce pan, with more odds and ends if I want for taste . . . bring to boil, use hand held immersion blender to puree it all up and strain thru a fine sieve.
I commented elsewhere today how really kewl this Lake is for foodies, and I grossly and mistakenly left your name out!!!!! My bad!!!!
I hereby include you on the list! You know your stuff . . . you, PW, Ecahn, Awnt Toby, and Seminals folks like Bill Engor and the others. Lisa Derrick, now that I think about it . . . likel many others I’ve neglected! lol
Phud Good!!!
*G*
Gravy, no thickener. If too thin, I add some ‘taters I’ve already cooked. *G*
Season to taste.
I always make yorkshires on Thanksgiving and Xmas and New Years Eve, so some gravy is most essential.
*G*
Aw, you are a love to include all these great skills for pumping up flavor! And thanks for including me in with lake foodies, (blush).
MrCE and I are cooking up a storm, trying to get his BP down: no salt especially. We’ve been looking for great fish and veggies, herbs and vegetarian recipes, too. We’ve gone heavy on cabbage, shrimp, salads, and such. Can’t beat a brined, butterflied chicken on the little Weber with lemons, garlic and tarragon stuffed under the skin.