OK..we are NOT in the kitchen today. This is for those folks who read, way back in October, about starting a garden and perhaps went to their land fill or composting facility and picked up some compost and put out the cardboard and now have …frozen piles of compost out in the yard that has snow all over it. It’s hard to get romantic looking at that stuff – but trust me, in the spring, you will be happy you did the work. Actually, look at the picture above: I took that yesterday, Christmas Eve day in my garden here in Upstate New York. Those are Brussels Sprouts, frozen but still cookable and edible. On Dec. 24th!! So, if you get started with more garden stuff this week, you can, even in the coldest places(well, maybe not Alaska…) have something out in your garden that you can harvest a year from now and use to feed your family (ahem..disclaimer: You will have something out in your garden that you can harvest…except if the bunnies and deer get to it. RIP: the Kale that was also standing in the snow last week, sniff).
For those who missed, here is a hint – you can still do this because fresh compost does not freeze. As a matter of fact, if you go visit your landfill/composting facility, you may find that the big black mountain standing there is….sending off a plume of steam. Composting creates a whole lot of heat. So, if you want to do the deed NOW(and loosen up that waistband from the holiday cookies!!! You will get a two-fer out of it!!), follow the instructions in our last episode. You may have to break through the outer frozen crust to the warm compost underneath – think of it as a giant vat of crème brulee, ok? Tomorrow’s Garden:Today!
For everyone else, who were good little Munchkins and now can look out, smugly, at the side yard with the mounded rows of compost on top of cardboard, the rest of the lesson is for YOU, mes petites Chou choux (which is French for little cabbages, which by the way is not a bad thing to grow).
Today’s lesson revolves around the issue of: What should you do now? It’s December. It’s cold. It’s thoroughly uninspiring out there. You’ve never done this before. What can you do now to move the process forward? Well, it means that you need to make some decisions about (cue the scary music) What Are You Going To Grow?
Check list for deciding:
1) What does your family like to eat in terms of veggies?
2) What other veggies are in the same family that they haven’t tried yet but that you’d like to try out.
3) Is this garden strictly for fresh eating or do you want to do some freezing, drying or canning too? Or is it strictly for stocking up?
4) Where do you live?
So, in terms of the check list and using the Chez Siberia family as the example:
1) Broccoli
2) Cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and kale
3) Both – we blanch and freeze broccoli, leave the Brussels sprouts and the kale out in the garden and the kohlrabi keeps in the bin in the fridge.
4) Ah – this is important. Read this if nothing else. The USDA produces a Climate Zone Map which, in a general sort of way, tells you what zone you are in depending on where you live.
It tells you basically how many frost-free growing days you have. If I look at that map, it tells me that I’ve got a couple of weeks in May and all the way into October to grow – wow – that’s 136 days. That’s amazing.
Except..it’s not true. We can have funky weather even into June and we have had killer frosts as early as Sept. 17th. So, I usually knock one zone off it and figure that I’ve got 3 weeks in June for sure, July, August, and through the end of September(and I cross my fingers behind my back and am always prepared with some plastic or The Big Blue Tarp if the weather folks predict frost).
This number of days is a very important tool for you because no matter what you like – there are types of plants and seeds that take so long from planting the seed to producing mature, ripened fruit or tubers under the ground or whatever, that you won’t get anything if you just put out seed and wait. So you need to…cheat.
Cheating in the garden means that for certain plants, you jump start them in the garden by either buying plants at your local greenhouse or you get seeds and start them under lights, on a warm window sill or go whole hog and get a warming pad, lights, etc. etc. and produce all your own plants.
Now we need to be honest (because at Aunty Toby’s, we are all about the self-reflection and honesty) with ourselves. I can tell you because I’ve been gardening for..well, we won’t go into that but it’s a whole mess of years, trust me. I can tell you that raising your own plants for the garden is like getting a new puppy in the house – you’ve got to keep track of where they are all the time, clean up after them, train those babies and make sure all their needs are covered. If you do not, they will die, or they will be leggy(which is almost as bad) or some other issue. So, if you want, this first year, just throw in the towel right now and be prepared to go to a greenhouse and get the plants. Find a co-worker or friend who gardens and ask them “Which is the best local greenhouse for garden veggie plants”. Not the cheapest place..not the closest place..not the place that has huge numbers of flats sitting out in the sun on hot asphalt(I’m talking to you guys, Big Box Stores), but the place that plants them at the right time, takes care of them, has knowledgeable people there that you can ask questions of, etc.
When you grow your own, the sky is the limit – you can grow those French tomatoes and Peruvian potatoes and all that. Even with a good local greenhouse, they are going to make some pretty strict decisions about what they are going to carry and sell. They will have a) plants that a lot of people ask for both by type(like tomato) and name(Big Boy, Early Girl, etc.), and b) plants that will have a high level of success in your area. So, starting with those your first year is a great way to start. Do that for 2-3 years and you will get a feel for how things work in your garden and you can start talking to other gardeners in your area as to what THEY grow, what works for them, etc.
On the other hand, if you want to know how to choose seeds, here are a couple of examples of tomatoes to give you an idea of how to make the choice:
Czech Bush……….70 days from transplant
Gold Medal………..90 days from transplant
“From transplant” means that you start the seed, grow it up into a little plant that is about 6” tall, all leafed out and stick it in the ground. 70 or 90 days from that moment is when you can first expect to get ripe tomatoes out of it. And you need the ground to be nice and warm also.
So, that means that if you plant it mid-way through May, the earliest you will be able to get tomatoes to eat is…probably going to be the end of July – and that is if everything is perfect – so it will more likely be into August for Czech Bush and into September for Gold Medal. If you live in a place like southern PA, MD, VA etc., Gold Medal would work for you – north of those areas, I’d go with Czech Bush because you want to make sure you actually GET tomatoes.
There are other plants that a)don’t take a long time to go from seed to harvest and b) don’t require really warm soil – lettuces and some things from the cabbage family come to mind. There are others that you will still want to grow from seed because they don’t transplant well…but they still want ‘warm feet’ – things like beans, squash, cucumbers, and corn. So, you can plan to plant your lettuce seeds, esp. if you plant to cover the bed with some sort of row cover or plastic or whatever, weeks before you can put in the beans, etc. and those tomato plants.
And finally, HOW do you find seeds? Well, you can go to your local garden center, but they usually don’t put their fresh(that is, the 2009 season) seed until it’s close to gardening time for your area. And if you want to try your hand at starting tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, etc., you are going to need those seed long before that, so you need to go to the internet. Search on terms like: garden seeds, vegetable seeds for colder areas, vegetable seeds for contests(that is, if you want to try to grow the biggest pumpkin or whatever). There are regional seed companies all over the US and into Canada and you can find pretty much whatever you want. You can find seed houses that do nothing but tomatoes and peppers; short season seed houses; seed houses that concentrate on French veggies or Italian or Mexican or Asian. You can always search on “xxx seed” where ‘xxx’ is the veggie of your choice. If nothing else, you can sign up to get ‘the gardener’s wish book’ – seed catalogs. There is nothing like sitting there with the wind and the snow howling outside, looking at luscious photographs of vegetables and flowers. Gets millions of people through the winter, those things do.
So, your assignment is:
1) If you have not done the compost and cardboard bit, follow the instructions in the posting I linked to above and go for it.
2) If you are ready to think about seeds, go to the internet, search for some seed houses that will have what you are looking for in terms of veggies and have them send you their catalogs.
3) Go to the link for the Frost-free map and find out how long your growing season is, so that when those catalogs come in, you can start to plan.
4) Rummage around and find a couple of pieces of ¼” grid graph paper so that you’ll be ready for the next assignment, which will be “how to plan out your garden.”



31 Comments







Digg is open, folks.
Toby, i even bought the book on companion planting. Will research and comment on your next post. this past summer i put in 4 foot squares, then noticed that some get quite a bit of shade. i guess i can put herbs in this part? Also, can one leave beets and carrots in the ground in the early winter?
Kathryn – how sandy is your soil? If it is, then you can mulch up the root crops and then as you need them, take off the mulch and dig them up. I have, mistakenly, left everything from potatoes to garlic and onions in the garden over the winter and had them come back up in the spring, too. But beets and carrots are biennial, I think, so if you leave them in until the spring, what will happen is that it will send up a flower stalk and the root is done for, basically(and it would be woody and tough and nasty anyway by that point). So, if you are going to hold them over, I’d make sure I got them out of the ground by Jan. 1, anyway. But, isn’t that shot of Brussels Sprouts a wonder??? We’ve been trying to hold onto as much in the garden as we can, though the deer and bunnies seem to have formed a conspiracy to get them first. Not that I blame them – if your choice was between some nice succulent (and now sweetened due to the frost) kale or sprouts OR nibbling on tree and shrub bark, what would you go for? Hmmm?
Thanks Toby. Wonderful post. ;->
Try letting the grass grow up just a tad on the long side right next to the veggie garden. Even encourage a dandylion or 3 (oh the horror!). Ever seen a bunny nibble down a dandylion stem like a kid sucking up a string of spaghetti?
BTW, early spring dandylions are quite tasty.
among the gourmet veggies in holiday displays, there should be some perfect little pearl onions, anticipating a spot on the table among perfect little green peas.
surprise them. snip open the little bag, did down through the snow to a nice soft bit of soil and set each little perfect onion part way into the ground (ahem, roots down). tuck the snow back over top and mark the spot.
try some spinach seed, or choy, again spreading out however you wish, and tucking it in gently.
i predict a pleasant surprise come early spring….
we have grown brussels sprouts a number of years. the best crop we ever had, they were so tall, they fell over, still rooted, so we just left them there and dug through the snow every once in awhile to pop off a few to add to a meal.
I think if they’d been covered with snow, Adie, the bunnies and deer would not have gotten to them so quickly, but they are still there and I’m going to harvest some for dinner. We like sprouts here – esp sauteed in a little olive oil with a bit of balsamic vinegar and walnuts!! I read a statistic recently – the number of acres in the UK devoted to producing sprouts is 6 times the acreage here in the US. Just goes to show you what a niche veggie sprouts are here. On the other hand…from the same source, we are eating 900% more broccoli today than we were 20 years ago. Real cabbage family progress there!
This past season was the 1st in a long time that we didn’t have a fence around our garden. (old, rusty and dangerous, it was time to recycle as we continue to prep for moving next summer)
much to our surprise, our friendly local charmer of a woodchuck, and the various bunnies and other nibblers left EVERYTHING alone. Color me stumped!
fwiw, our “fence” wasn’t really used to keep things out before either. It was used instead as a way to extend growing space by training various veggies upwards and save precious ground space. Even little 12″ diameter circles of wiring can act as a support for peppers, broccoli, etc.
One possible clue why we’re not “bothered” by the wildlife: over the years, we have added and spread many tasty wildlife favorites to all the edges of our property, and these shrubs et al are heavily used by the “natives” among us: winterberry, red osier dogwood, hazelnut, walnut, hickorynuts, staghorn sumac, ash and beech trees, goldenrod, bergamot, milkweed, blueberry, serviceberry, “multicrop” lawn which is mowed but much smaller than when we first moved here 35 yrs ago, and which provides those luscious dandylion tidbits, hawkweed et al.,
On second thot, mebbe the wildlife would “like” to sample the official garden, but they simply run out of time, heh.
i’d like to know what kept the groundhogs at bay – mine chewed down whole rows of peas and beans and every zucchini blossom.
Here’s a hint: the neighbor’s cat…? When we had cats who lived in our barn when we had livestock, we never, ever had woodchuck or bunny issues in the garden. Now that we do not have cats(or livestock for that matter), we have extremely cheeky bunnies and woodchucks.
I’d counsel finding where that rascal has set up shop, and convince him to move. Or…. you know that dratted fencing? It’s kinda handy for training up bean and pea plants. Block access to the base with anything handy, small-mesh fence, slate, cookie trays… seriously, give it a thought. He’s not going to be a fence climber but, yes, one who has grown to savor your peas can be a problem. Do you have room enough to set up a lil’ feeder for him in nearby woods? Ever try setting upside-down mouse traps near the row to keep him out? Ever try Indian remedy of growing pole beans & corn up through pumpkins? (raccoons and wood chucks hate wading through pumpkin vines almost as much as I do)….
fencing is a bore.
okay.. just not for us. Our tomato plants grow 8-9feet tall and produce heavily. Training them up allows us to fit in more highly productive sidebranches. Fruit is cleaner.. We’re not fencing things out. We’re using heavy welded stock fence as a support, wired to heavy stock fencing posts which we leave in the ground over winter. A little extra work in the beginning, but much less work throughout the growing and harvest season.
Also helpful, we rake sections of the garden into mini-raised-beds, but without all the intense labor that can involve. We do not edge the beds with timbers etc. We simply rake prepped soil so as to have planting beds raised, and any shape we want, just so long as we don’t have to step on the planting surface, and we can reach across from all sides to weed and cultivate, mulch, etc. We use the mini-trenches around each bed as dikes to catch and hold rain runoff, or drain away from the planting bed.
greens-loving critters seem to enjoy our lightly-mowed areas, where the grass is slightly longer than most of the lawn, but mowed just enough that it’s always tender.
The one thing we’ve never had to test seriously is deer. We have a few deer in our woods and they do get out into the lawn occasionally. They like nibbling the sumac and red-twig dogwood a little, but they leave the veg garden alone.
Mebbe it was the way I shook my finger at them. I dunno. Mebbe we’re blind lucky by accident. Either way. We luvs our veggies year round, and our critters ditto. And we don’t use any pesticides. There’s nothing to match the feeling of being chortled at by a nearly-tame bluebird poppa and his missus right next to ya working in the garden. Nor that of trying to pick blueberries while being verbally roasted by bluebird, catbird & robin cuss-words. But, hint hint, the birds PREFER elderberry and red-twig dogwood fruit to bluebirds.
last word should be “blueberries”. It’s the Cooper’s Hawk who’d like him a taste of bluebird, but they’re too smart for him. The house finches, not so much…
Thank you, Toby, for this post. I would like to offer my favorite vegetable gardening book for the moment: Gardening When It Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times, by Steve Solomon. This whole book talks about growing food in the least expensive but most productive ways possible, and what he says works very well. Steve Solomon used to own Territorial Seed Company, one of my favorites here in the Pacific Northwest.
I also have some favorite seeds that work well where I live. They are:
Tomatoes: Costoluto Genovese
Peppers: Marconi Sweet Italian
Eggplant: Nadia
Salad Greens: Green mustard, red mustard, arugula
Where I garden is zone 8, so I can winter over the more hardy salad greens under plastic. The tomatoes, peppers and eggplant I start from seed in the spring, and plant out when it’s warm enough. They never sell these varieties at the garden centers, and it’s a shame because they are well worth the effort!
Votus — garden centers never, ever grow the best tasting veggies as plants – they grow the ones that people come in asking for (that is, the ones that they read about in the gardening columns in the local paper or which are marketed heavily to them) and the ones that they think people will be most successful WITH. In our area in Upstate NY – that means:
Tomatoes: Big Boy, Early Girl and Sweet 100
Peppers: New Ace, Calwonder, Sweet Banana and an early Jalapeno
These three tomatoes are considered “sure fire” – they also have all the taste personality of a piece of cardboard. The same can be said for the Peppers. But, for beginner gardeners, I always advocate having people learn how to care for a garden the first year – and then moving on to more sophisticated gardening and eating after they’ve got planting, mulching, weeding, and harvesting under their belts.
This makes sense.
oh, and the Blue Lake string beans? 12 feet tall and more. WE like fencing.
Each to his/her own…
Our favorite bean is Royal Burgundy – even if we get a wet chilly spring, we won’t lose the crop if we put in Royal Burgundy – they seeds won’t rot in the ground and we still get very nice beans.
Never tried Royal Burgundy, but now we plan to. Thanks! We used to love the flavor Burpee’s Tenderpod, but they absolutely HATE heavy soil, or iffy weather. We’ve been looking for something new.
Please. What are your favorite tomatoes for flavor, and why? Would appreciate. So far, we’re stuck on Big- or Better-Boy, and Sweet 100, which self-sow and come up true.
Another nice plant better self-sown (at least in our garden): Bok Choy. Go figure. If they come up, I save them, no matter where. If they come up in an awkward place, they simply join a salad or stir-fry earlier rather than later, heh.
Thanks Toby. I look fwd to lots more tips. We should be able to reserve a little plot at our new digs next summer.
I’m not giving away any secrets with this – but there are several tricks to getting tomatoes(and peppers for that matter)up where I am that actually have a good intense taste:
1)You have to have flowers on the plants when the night time temperatures are warm – like 70 degrees F. If you have flowers on the plants before then or after then, you may or may not set tomatoes and if it’s late in the season, then you don’t get enough warmth and sun to bring out the sugars and other flavors in the tomatoes. Early Girl and other early tomatoes will set flowers all right, but unless you get those plants in the ground early, the tomatoes will not be on the plant long enough. So…
2)You’ve got to have a plant big enough when you put it into the garden that you’ve got a shot at getting flowers within a week or two(putting a plant in the ground that already HAS flowers on it is an invitation to that plant dropping all of its flowers and setting you way behind). We start our seeds in January and just keep transplanting the plants into larger containers(save juice or milk cartons, plastic milk jugs). Just transplant the plant deeper and deeper – it will set roots farther up the stem. When you put it into the ground, you’ll really have something worth planting. Six pack size tomato plants for us end up producing a whole lot of green tomatoes…
3)You’ve got to have nice warm ground to put that plant in. In the old days, the ‘rule of thumb’ was “warm enough for a baby’s butt to sit in it” – around here, that can be late in JUNE. So, we use black plastic mulch as soon as we can get the snow off a bed. If things are lingering, we will shovel the snow OFF a bed to get it on. If we can get plastic on the beds early, then I can have lettuce in early also. I can get lettuce fit to eat in April that way.
For peppers, THE thing that works: start like the tomatoes and then..NO MATTER HOW WARM THE SOIL IS(and getting a soil thermometer is a good investment also), plant them in compost in gallon milk jugs, one to a jug. Or, if you can find two-gal spring water jugs or those white 5 gal plastic buckets(if your grocery store has a bakery section, you can sometimes get them cheap or free – and you will at least know that they have only held food), you can plant 2-3 plants in compost in those(don’t forget the drainage holes). Put those jugs or buckets in the warmest, sunniest place in your yard – my best year, I had them on a part of the driveway that most of the time we do not use. Yes, I had to water them more often. But peppers love hot feet and this is the only way where I am that I can make that happen. They like their feet even hotter than tomatoes do.
OK – tomatoes that work for us and taste good:
Paste: any of the bulls horn shaped tomatoes are good; I think Federle taste best. We also grew a really wrinked Genovese tomato last year that produced wonderful tasting, dry tomatoes that we made salsa out of – held their color in the jar and taste great. I saved seed from those and will be starting those after the New Year.
Slicing fresh: We like beefsteak and Brandywine, but again, the trick here is to get them into the ground and at a size so that they can set flowers as soon as they possibly can with warm weather so that you have a good long stretch in front of the tomato for growth and development of sugars.
Grape, Cherry and all other teeny tomatoes: I cheat here because I just need one plant of one of these in a bucket on the deck. Anything else ends up self-sewing all over the place, so I just stop by one of the garden centers, pick up a good sized cherry tomato plant and sink it into a five gal. bucket on the deck.
Thank you VERY much for the helpful hints. Our planting conditions will be different next year, much different that what we’re used to. It’s great to have the hints on container gardening, as we’ll have a bit of a walk to the garden plots, but are allowed some control over where planting areas are to be put near our cottage. You’ve already given me some intriguing ideas. If I try to engineer it so we move actual growing plants to the new digs, I may be proven as crazy as I probably am, but I might try.
What part of the country are you planting in? I don’t recognize some of the varieties you mention. We’re going to be dealing with slightly tenderized, heavy OH clay. I’m used to that, but I’m not quite nuts enough to try the impossible….
Thanks again. You’ve stirred up my garden fever, and it’s not even inauguration day yet. Then there are the piles and piles of semi-sorted goodies we’re finding good homes for before our move…. yeah. it’s a mess here. filing by piling is my motto.
Happy New Year!
Adie – we’re in a rather funky piece of geography in Upstate NY – USDA zone maps put us solidly in Zone 4, but the topography around my house(north east facing slopes)make us treat it as a solid Zone 3 and we count on the worst happening(I have a vivid memory of one year being in the hospital after surgery on Sept. 17th and the DH coming in to visit and telling me we’d lost all the tender stuff in the garden because we’d had a freak frost the night before that had rolled down the hill and killed everything). Gardening is for folks who love the scent of risk – one year, on a flyer, we shoveled all the snow off a South facing raised bed in March, covered it with clear plastic and I started lettuce, Chinese cabbage and broccoli seeds in the house. We took the temperature of the soil the first week in April, put the plants out there, still under the clear plastic and were harvesting beautiful greens the first week in May. The broccoli sort of limped along a little bit, but we did finally get some decent cabbage and broccoli in early June as I recall. But we could have lost it all. We did get a couple of light snows in April – the DH and I went out, picked up the edges of the clear plastic and flipped it like a cover on your bed,getting rid of the snow. We weighed down the edges of the plastic all around the bed with some cast iron pipe that we had laying around. We did not have to worry about it overheating (like you can have with a cold frame – I think because the plastic was not at an angle; it was just flat over the sides of the bed. From that standpoint, it was not the most efficient at using the solar energy, but on the other side, the plants did not cook inside of it either.
OMG. We started our present gardening binge over 40 years ago in upstateNY – Ithaca.
Bio. MS. One thing stuck with me like crazy through all my reincarnations since then: MICROCLIMATE!!! That’s basically how I’ve always gardened: fiddling subtly with what surrounds the plant I want to grow. Looks pretty funny sometimes, but let’s just say we’ve taken home our share of pretty ribbons from the county fair since those days. heh. and our kids ate well, no matter how hard times were at various points through the years.
Our landlord in Ithaca, a retired farmer, taught us how to plant our corn in little “hot-caps” to fool the seed. Yeah it worked, and later on, milk jugs with bottom cut out served even better (I forgot to save for Martha Stewart ink, pictures of the “draperies” of half-jugs strung throughout our basement during the “off” season (for corn, that is; we’ve grown year-round, one way or another, during our 35+ yrs in N.E. OH.)
The same Ithaca farmer taught us how to “tent” chickenwire over our newly planted peas to keep the pheasants out (a real problem, since Cornell U. seemed to regard it as important to release those poor, pen-raised pheasants in droves year after year). I still remember the “joy” of awakening one morning to see a hen pheasant pacing back and forth under the wire tent one morn, having cleared out our row and anxious to get on to the next garden.
Garbanzo beans, Mung beans, Soy for our own green beans, LONG before Martha inaStew. started preaching that we must call them “edamame”.
Yeah. Nice to meet you, and we need to talk s’more!
Just double-checked. You haven’t really been at this long enough, sonny.
Never used a shower curtain to protect the lettuce (not the liner; the plastic shatters in the cold)? Never propped things up, especially overgrown climbing tomatoes and beans, with used campaign sign wire supports threaded into the top of stock wire?
Clipping plastic sheeting to the windward side of “fencing” to ease the strain on precious baby greens?
Slipping hot-water-filled jugs under plastic to save the last of the chard so that it may sprout yet again come warmer weather….
Oh, the memories…. There’s nothing that can’t be done, if only….
Wow–those are some big beans! My beans don’t get that big where I live.
Must go rescue our crew here.
Happy Holidays EVERYONE! ;->
Hey Toby, I was wondering, what gardening zone are you in? I am wondering how Royal Burgundy beans might do in my area. I have grown other beans here–Scarlet runner beans, and purple pod and pencil pod bush beans. I grow these for the flowers as much as the beans, but the beans taste good, too. The tricky thing with here is that it takes a long time for the night time temps. to warm up enough to plant out warm weather seeds like beans, so some years are better than others. I planted beans quite late this summer, but because we had a warm fall I lucked out and got a decent amount of beans from them. I grow Beefstakes and Sweet 100s every year, and they are good. I have to select short-season varieties, because it takes so long for weather to warm in the spring. I grew a new one called San Marzano this year–it’s like a Roma paste tomato. They were good.
We’ve had good luck with San Marzano also. As for growing zone, the USDA puts my area firmly into Zone 4 – however, my property is at the bottom of a slope(cue scary music), which means that we can have odd ball frosts both early and late(hence the handy Big Blue Tarp action). The thing with Royal Burgundy is that they are 51 days, so even here, I can keep planting them until the first week in July and as long as I don’t get a hard frost in September(which has been known to happen here), we get really good crops with them. They are very pretty, the flowers are a delightful pinky/lavender. We’ve grown bush Blue Lake, bush romano, too..but in terms of ’sure fire no matter how cold the soils, heavy the soils, rain, etc.’ we have had the best luck and best crops with Royal Burgundy.
Wow–very interesting place where you garden! We have somewhat different gardening issues, but we both seem to share the need for short-season crops! I’m always on the lookout for good varieties, so I appreciate you sharing what’s worked for you and what tasted good.
I have no idea. My parents were city-folk.